Climbing Mt Kenya – KCMK8
Following are your Climbing Mt Kenya itineraries, taking you to Kenya’s highest point. Mount Kenya is also Africa’s 2nd highest peak at 5199 m. With its rugged glacier-clad summits and forested middle slopes, Mount Kenya is one of the most impressive landscapes in East Africa.
Our Mountain guides are well experienced on technical knowledge, having being trained by N.O.L.S (The American National Outdoor Leadership School) and working with Kenya Wildlife Service (K.W.S), helping them with the mountain rescues in Mount Kenya National Park.
Its tarns and exotic high altitude vegetation, and wildlife, provide one of the most beautiful expeditions in the East African mountains. Consequently, there is superb climbing potential on Mt Kenya. I
The peak area is formed from the hard core or plug of the volcano, the crater having long since been eroded away, and rises steeply on all sides some 450 m above the glaciers and scree slopes. There is excellent rock and ice climbing of a high standard to the twin summit peaks of Batian (5199 m) and Nelion (5188 m). The third highest peak is Pt. Lenana (4985 m) which can be reached by any fit walker, is suitably equipped.
There are over 800 plant species in the national park. In addition, a wide variety of wildlife exists such as elephant, buffalo, eland, bushbuck, waterbuck, zebra, hyena, colobus monkey, and white-throated guegnon. Also, common at higher altitudes, the ubiquitous Mt Kenya rock hyrax resides. Animals rarely seen include leopard, bongo, giant forest hog and rhino.
If you wish to do a shorter or different version than what you see here, please contact us.
Weather
The highest rainfall occurs between late March and the middle of May, and slightly less between October and mid-December. Rain and snow can be encountered at any time of year, even in the driest months January –February.
Normally, the drier seasons are associated with clear, dry weather which can last for many days on end. The best weather is generally in the mornings. Rainfall, if any, tends to come in the mid-afternoon. Temperatures vary considerably with altitude and time of day. At 3000 m, frost can be encountered at night while day temperatures range from 5 to 15°C. Certainly, night time temperatures on the summit are well below freezing. However, it is possible to climb the mountain during the rainy seasons with slight difficulty experienced in the vertical bog and scree. Above all routes, Chogoria is the most scenic, as well as the longest and toughest of all the routes.
The south-facing side of Mount Kenya receives more sunshine in the December to March period. During this time, rock climbs are “in-condition” and snow and ice climbs gradually deteriorate. Contrarily, in the June to October period, the north-facing rock climbs and south-facing ice climbs are best. The north face route is best done June – October, the standard route is best December – February.
Equipment
For climbing equipment, you need to bring your own harness, climbing boots, crampons, ice axe, warm sleeping bag, and bivy bag. Other climbing equipment ie. figure of eight, stopper, and ropes will be provided. Complete packing list here.
Food and Water
We provide experienced cooks who are able to prepare tasty and balanced meals in altitude kitchens. They are very concerned about hygiene, special dietary requirements and do their best to always provide fresh food.
As you climb, water will be less and less available. At lower camps, porters will climb up to provide enough clean water for the group. In high altitude camps, water will be filtered or boiled. Bring powdered juice to take away the taste if you use chemicals! It is also advisable that you use Micropur, or similar, as a precaution to eliminate bacteria. (Reaction time with Micropur is approximately 30 minutes to clear your water.) Filtration pumps are excellent, though costly.
5 and 6 Day Climbs to Point Lenana
High Altitude Climbing and Altitude Sickness
8 DAY MT KENYA TECHNICAL CLIMBING – 2 Routes
We have two common main routes for technical climbing up Mt Kenya to Batian, the highest peak at 5,199 m. They are the usual SE route and the North Face route.
1. SE FACE MT KENYA CLIMB – December to February
Up Old Moses Liki Route and Down Chogoria Technical Details
The normal standard route starts from Austrian hut. Therefore, this is the most commonly used route on the South Eastern side of the mountain. It is the only one where we have abseil rings fixed. Climbers start from the Austrian Hut very early in the morning around 4:00 a.m., hiking across the Lewis glacier and up to the base. This takes about 2 hours.
From the base, the climb is easy with the first 3 pitches scrambled using a running belay. Then, we arrive at Mackinder’s Chimney. It’s a bit tricky so you have the Rabbit Hole as an alternative. Both pitches are grade IV. From there, we come to the One O’clock Gully. Follow with another easy 4 pitches which bring you to the Bailles’ Bivy.
From Mackinder’s Gendarme, the pitch will lead you to the De Graph Variation. This is the most difficult part of the climb, grade IV+. It becomes a bit difficult without good holds and steps, but the rock is quite rough which helps you move easily, grade V+. After this, you do another easy part of grade III to lead you to another tricky traverse, which is short, about 20 metres. Following that, are two easy pitches to Nelion.
If you are crossing to Batian, you will scramble for 50 meters to an anchor, where you fix a rope to cross the Gate of Mist, then do two short pitches of 25 meters to Batian summit.
Note:
You will require ice climbing equipment i.e. crampons and ice axe. The whole climb is made up of 18 pitches and it is the easiest climb to Nelion and Batian. The best months to climb the standard route are, December, January and February.
Itinerary SE Face
Day 1 Nairobi – Old Moses Camp 3300 m (10,890 ft.)
Leave Nairobi at 8:00 am for drive to Nanyuki, which normally takes 4 hours. Then, proceed to Mt Kenya National Park Sirimon gate. After a picnic lunch, we follow the track uphill for 10 kms. Fork left at the junction to reach Old Moses camp, situated at 3,300 m. The ascent from Sirimon gate to Old Moses is 690 m.
Day 2 Shipton’s Camp 4236 m (13,898 ft.)
During this day, we will hike through the Liki Valley via Mackinder Valley to Shipton’s Camp for 7 – 8 hours. Of course lunch is served on route. At Shipton’s Camp, you will have splendid views of the north faces of Nelion and Batian peaks. Enjoy your well earned dinner here and camp overnight.
Day 3 Peak Circuit for Acclimatization Shipton’s Camp
After breakfast, we start the peak circuit to help with acclimatization. Ascend to a steep ridge through Kami Hut, Hausberg Col and Two Tarns Lake. This takes approximately 4 hours walk through some of the most spectacular scenery. Next, we return to Shipton’s Camp.
Day 4 Austrian Hut (Top Hut) 4700 m (15,510 ft.)
Today, we trek to Austrian Hut, located just east of Point Lenana. This will be your base before climbing Nelion.
Day 5 Point Lenana Summit 4985 m (16,355 ft.), Austrian Hut
Firstly, we arise at 2:00 am, and have tea and biscuits while getting prepared. Leave at 3:00 a.m. for the Lenana summit. This section is a long, hard slog, and the path is indistinct in places. Continue walking across tough scree, until you come to Harris Tarn.
Continue up the north face of Point Lenana, reaching the summit after about 45 minutes. Sunrise is at 6:30 a.m. After enjoying the views and taking photos, we descend down to Austrian hut at 4700 m. This will be your base camp before climbing Nelion at 5100 m.
NB: If you are a quick climber, you can continue onto the Batian summit in one day.
Day 6 Nelion and Batian Summit 5199 m (17,257 ft.), Austrian Hut
Arising early, we can reach the base of the route to the summit in about an hour. Crampons are generally used to cross the small glacier. It is not steep but the snow is often quite firm. See above technical details. Traverse the Gate Of Mist to Batian summit. Spend some time to congratulate yourself and enjoy the views. Then, return to Nelion and Austrian Hut. The summit day is fairly long, 10 to 12 hours for the round trip. Dinner and overnight is spent at Austrian Hut.
Day 7 Met Station 3048 m (10,000 ft.)
After breakfast, descend down to the south to Met Station. Subsequently, spend the night here.
Day 8 Nairobi
Continue walking down through the indigenous forest to meet up with your transport back to Nairobi. Finally, you will arrive in Nairobi in the late evening.
2. NORTH FACE MT KENYA CLIMB – June to October
Up Old Moses Liki Route and Down Chogoria Technical Details
The North Face standard route starts from Kami Hut, at 4300 m, after Shipton’s Camp. If you are planning to get to the top, you need to take 7 to 8 days. When taking the North Face, you will have to overnight at Firmin Tower, either putting up a tent or bivouac. If you wish to traverse the Gate Of Mist to Nelion, you will need crampons.
The North Face route starts from Shipton’s Camp or from Kami Hut at 0330 hrs. It is a 2 hr. hike to the base of climbing with the start being Grade IV+. The first two pitches are easy for scrambling; another Grade III, then Grade 11 and a Grade IV to get to the amphitheatre. From there, it is an easy walk to the base of Firmin Tower. Two routes emerge here; one route up the Tower is quite tricky and about Grade V in a small gully. The other is around the tower, easier but longer.
After that, you come to the knife edge. Here, do a Grade IV+ pitch and another Grade IV before you come to a traverse. Consequently, it leads you to the Shipton’s notch. Rocks are quite loose and need to be handled with care. After you are through with Shipton’s notch, you will then reach Batian at 5,199 m.
After summiting, you then abseil down and do a lot of down climbing. This is the longest climb with 23 pitches. This route is best done from June to early October.
Itinerary North Face
Day 1 Nairobi – Old Moses Camp 3300 m (10,890 ft.)
Leave Nairobi at 8:00 am for drive to Nanyuki, which normally takes 4 hours. Then, proceed to Mt Kenya National Park Sirimon gate. After a picnic lunch, we follow the track uphill for 10 kms. Fork left at the junction to reach Old Moses camp, situated at 3,300 m. The ascent from Sirimon gate to Old Moses is 690 m.
Day 2 Shipton’s Camp 4236 m (13,898 ft.)
During this day, we will hike through the Liki Valley via Mackinder Valley to Shipton’s Camp for 7 – 8 hours. Of course lunch is served on route. At Shipton’s Camp, you will have splendid views of the north faces of Nelion and Batian peaks. Enjoy your well earned dinner here and camp overnight.
Day 3 Peak Circuit for Acclimatization Shipton’s Camp
After breakfast, we start the peak circuit to help with acclimatization. Ascend to a steep ridge through Kami Hut, Hausberg Col and Two Tarns Lake. This takes approximately 4 hours walk through some of the most spectacular scenery. Next, we return to Shipton’s Camp.
Day 4 Kami Hut 4439 m (14,649 ft.)
Indeed, today we ascend to Kami Hut, the base camp for the North Face. Normally, this takes just 2hrs.
Day 5 Firmin Tower
Firstly, arise early, usually between 4 and 5 am. Then, depart at 5:30 for the base of North Face, which normally takes 45 mins to 1 hour. We may climb the first couple of pitches by headlamp. This section is rocky and frozen scree. Continue walking until you reach the starting point of rock climbing, (10 ropes of 50m). Spend a night at Firmin Tower.
Day 6 Summit Batian 5199 m (17,257 ft.) to Shipton’s Camp
There are about 3 difficult pitches, all fairly short, in the 5.8 to 5.9 range. Above this, easier terrain leads to a few more pitches and, finally, the west ridge. From this point, we continue on easy, but still exposed, rock to Shipton’s Notch. This is a prominent gash in the summit ridge. Another pitch, then mixed 4th and easy 5th class rock leads to the Batian summit. Following the summit, we abseil down to the bottom and walk to Shipton’s Camp for dinner and overnight.
Day 7 Meru Bandas 3000 m (9900 ft.)
We descend using the Chogoria Route because it is considered to be the most spectacular on the peak. The trek out begins with a climb up to Simba Col, then down to Meru Mount Kenya Bandas following the Gorges Valley. Meanwhile, we leave the high moorlands and enter into the forest belt which surrounds Mount Kenya. Hence, we are likely to see Cape Buffalo, as well as Bush Buck or Water Buck, and tracks of other wild animals. It will take about 7 hours to reach the bandas.
Day 8 Nairobi
After morning breakfast, continue walking down through the bamboo and indigenous forest to Bairunyi. Finally, meet up with your transport for your trip back to Nairobi.
